Luckily, laser cutting is not very expensive any more. The length of the wires is a balancing act between short enough to keep the enclosure free of excess tangles of wire (which might prevent you from being able to close the box) and long enough to be able to move parts out of the way to solder other parts in, tighten screws and poke around with your multimeter while debugging.Īchieving a clean, professional look is very hard when sawing and painting by hand. You can use these as a big connector, so you can still unplug your Arduino for testing. I recommend getting some strips of header pins and soldering the wires to those. Finally, you connect to the Arduino.Īfter creating loops for power and ground, all the connections to the Arduino pins remain. You don't connect all ground pins directly to the Arduino, but rather connect ground on one button to ground on the next button and loop all around. When connecting all electronics to the final faceplate, you can reduce clutter by creating loops for 5V and ground. I soldered some wires to the buttons and used a solderless breadboard to make the temporary connections to the Arduino. When creating a prototype, don't solder all your buttons in unless you want to de-solder them when you get to the final enclosure. digital design drawings ready for lasercutting. This guide will include everything you need to build an identical copy, or make adjustments and improvements along the way, as you see fit. This specific build includes inputs such as rotation and translation controls through joysticks, a throttle slider, loads of buttons with status lights, LED fuel gauges and a telemetry LCD display with multiple modes. we have liftoff! What is a KerbalController?Ī KerbalController, also referred to as a Control Panel, Simpit (simulated cockpit), DSKY (display keyboard) or custom joystick, is a customized input device for controlling the popular rocket-building-and-flying-and-hopefully-not-exploding game Kerbal Space Program combined with optional output from the game, such as status lights, telemetry displays and/or fuel gauges. Especially when it's a big red safety switch, where you have to open the cover first, flick the switch to arm your rocket, start the countdown and 3. Now is also a good time to pre-drill the mounting holes in the 4 corners.Well, because pushing buttons and throwing physical switches feels so much more substantial than clicking your mouse. This would make the panel shinier, and prevent little fingers (and big ones) from tearing the sheet while you're drilling the holes and installing the switches. If I had to do it over again I would reverse the layout and text and attach the sheet on the BACK of the Plexi. On my panel I printed it out and attached the sheet on the "front" side of the Plexi. Once you have the overlay done the way you like, print this out on some translucent adhesive-backed paper. You don't want the switches to bump up against the frame when you go to mount it. REMEMBER to do a test-placement on the plexi while it is ON THE FRAME. These are a lifesaver when you're trying to align your drill bit properly, and it makes the resulting display look a lot nicer. Don't forget to include the crosshairs on each circle. I measured each switch and light to ensure that I had the right diameter circle for each one, and sized the circles in powerpoint accordingly. The alien text used below the NASA logo is "Vorlon" in case you don't have a Klingon font handy. Suitable function labels for the switches on our intrepid explorer's spaceship were also added. I just used Powerpoint to lay out the switch locations and provide a more high-tech background for the light.
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